EV charging cost and time
What will this charge actually cost you?
Most cost calculators multiply battery size by your tariff and stop there. That number is wrong in a way that matters: you pay for more energy than reaches the battery, and you rarely get the charger's full power for the whole session. This one shows both.
- Energy into the battery
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- Energy taken from the grid
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- Lost to charging losses
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- Average power actually reached
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- Cost per 100 km of driving
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What this estimate assumes
- Charging losses of —, applied to every charge.
- Your car accepts an average of — of the charger's rated power over the session.
- A flat electricity price, with no time-of-use difference across the session.
- No charging speed limit from battery temperature, so real sessions can take longer.
Change any input and recalculate — the numbers update to match. See charging basics for what each assumption means, or sources for where the boundaries come from.
Start from the task you are trying to do
Each of these answers one specific question. They do not all lead to the calculator.
Prepare for home charging
What to confirm with an electrician and your retailer before anyone drills a wall.
Understand losses and charge curves
Why your last 20% takes as long as the first 40%, and where the losses come from.
Work out cost per 100 km
The method, including why using the manufacturer's range gives a different answer.
Check where the boundaries come from
Official Australian sources for tariffs, safety and installation rules.
What this site will not do
- It does not tell you which charger to buy, or rank brands. There is no sponsored ranking here.
- It does not give electrical installation advice. Any wiring, switchboard work or load assessment must be carried out and signed off by a licensed electrician.
- It does not quote your next bill. Real charges vary with temperature, battery age and tariff structure.